Within a week, from June, 29th till July, 3rd, in territory of National park «Jugyd Vа» has taken place press round of representatives of mass-media of the Republic Komi development of local tourism became which theme. In it has taken part also the correspondent «Sparks - your city newspaper».
«Be better than mountains mountains can only...». It would be desirable to interrupt on it a phrase of the great bard, having excluded «on which did not happen yet» because to learn mountains, to study them thoroughly it is almost impossible.
Magnificence and grandness of natural masterpieces even that small part «Jugyd Vа», concerning Intinsky area that we had time to see for 5 days, it is simply impossible to describe. It is necessary to see it. To fall asleep on the brink of a rock hanging over a river valley and... To think suddenly, as you here have got in passion of a unification with the nature and how now to go down. Any corner of park - is unique, and from each party it looks in a new fashion, therefore to admire it it is possible infinitely.
However press round terms are limited, and in this time it was necessary to look and have time to make much.
In the beginning there was a word.
Having met nonresident colleagues at station Inta, we accompanied by experts and pupils of stations of young tourists, and also representatives of administration of Intinsky district have gone to a long trip on the leader to «Jugyd Vа» by Intinsky road. The road has appeared difficult: went more than 8 hours, and all this time we rushed on potholes and hummocks.
As it was found out later, during press conference which has taken place after arrival on base of "Dignity-vozh", a transport component - one of the basic problems of development of local tourism. The park territory is accessible to all. Today, to take pleasure in its beauty, it is necessary to receive only the entry visa, and unlike recent time, the payment for it is not raised. However easy availability is only the theory, in practice all rests against a road condition.
Extent of Intinsky road makes about 130 km which could be overcome in an hour-two. In practice the way is stretched in time till 8,5 o'clock. Besides, delivery to park territory - expensive enough pleasure. The road only in one party (the order of special transport) manages in 16 thousand roubles. Such quotations are economically justified, as include all expenses on transport, has explained during press conference managing municipal department of sports and the youth policy Evgenie Poljakov into which duties enters and supervising of local tourism.
Other problem of park follows from a transport component - creation and an accomplishment of tourist bases also. Located in Intinsky area «Jugyd ва» base of "Dignity-vozh" - unique, belonging to park. The others which to us still should be visited, have the status private or industrial. Construction of the additional demands big and even huge investments. Delivery of a material and building only one house will manage in the sum more than 1 million roubles. Such means are not present either at national park, or at local municipality.
There is a hope only on businessmen, but also here there are problems. The great demand is necessary for profitableness of business, and according to monitoring, during the last years the stream of tourists in Priurale has considerably decreased. The reasons for it weight. One of them who named E.Poljakov - outflow of tourists-skiers in connection with cancellation is no time the popular correspondence Championship of Russia on sports ski tourism. Earlier on park territory the numerous groups were flown down, wishing to take in it part in a class "Route". For tourists it was not only competition, but also chance to raise the sports category.
Now tourism in park territory became seasonal and, taking into account features of northern weather, limited enough. Our trip was a vivid example to it. For a working five-day week which proceeded in the beginning of July, we had time to return at spring, and at more remote heights - at winter. As a matter of fact, we did not manage even to feed up properly mosquitoes. During this period inveterate tourists can dare at serious throws and the people preferring an extreme only.
And despite all obstacles even at northern territory «Jugyd ва» is the big inclinations for tourism development, the director of stations of young tourists Sergey Prima has shared such opinion with us. As he considers, here there are possibilities for development of all directions: mass routes, popular or as they still name many businessmen - budgetary variants, that is there where economic benefit goes from a turn, from quantity of visitings at rather low cost. The territory of park and the spent zoning of park with allocation of recreational and reserved zones allows to develop and other kinds of tourism, including a vip-variant. For the last is available just more possibilities as the most significant, bright places of park can be visited, only using air transport, transfer cost on which, naturally, in one hundred times above the land.
So it is required that not only to support, but also to start to develop already local tourist business? The final question of press conference was such. The answer - tourism propagation in territory «Jugyd ва», advancement of a tourist's product and search of investors.
Edge of northern rivers and snow tops.
Anybody from our group did not doubt and earlier necessity of development of tourism in park territory. Also has put here at all in economic benefit, and that this corner of a world heritage is worthy of it here to visit. It is worthy that about it spoke, recollected, devoted it songs.
By the way, as it was found out, the songs devoted to corners «Jugyd ва», no, or they are unknown. And this edge while remains not sung. And it is a pity. Here there is a weight of places which could become a source for inspiration. Some of them to us managed to be seen during the excursions which were passing under a sensitive management of the fulfilling duty of the head of Intinsky branch of park of Olga Buga.
Let's begin with that the base «the Dignity-vozh» on which we should live within three days, is in rather picturesque place, in an environment of two ridges of Maldynyrd and the Glutton. Weather us did not favour, often there was a snow, therefore their tops almost constantly were are hidden in foggy a smoke. But sometimes, before a decline and at a dawn, stone backs were visible, clearly. Transparent mountain air allowed to see crevices and snow-covered hollows, and it seems, to tops no distance, but it only an optical illusion.
In general in mountains the points located on a card nearby, can be divided by many hours of a way. Hours, as kilometres here too not in a course. We were convinced of it still on the way on base, the further trips in the most significant places of park only have confirmed the received experience.
Near to base of "Dignity-vozh" there are at once some nature sanctuaries, however a way to them it has appeared remote, and the trip has occupied practically all the day. One of them carries the conditional name "Grottoes". Here there is no time one of industrial parking of gold miners settled down, and this place of unusual beauty grottoes is remarkable, on which spring waters will run downwards to join the river Balbanju.
Not less impressing cave formations have settled down and in slopes of the right river bank but that them to consider and finish shooting, we had to work fairly, in certain cases even with risk for a life.
After such extreme entertainment the following parking became for us not simply one more object of shooting, and rather weakening show. Organizers of press round have brought us to one of the most beautiful places - merge of the rivers Balbanju and Kozhim. Their waters Here incorporate, and the incorporated powerful stream of surprising green-blue colour continues the way on valleys «Jugyd ва».
The following stop - a geological monument "Stone image". Multimeter (nearby 30) the colossus towers over Kozhimom. From apart it really reminds a female figure as the ancient person represented the goddess-mother. It is said that before an outline of a natural sculpture were others: from the different parties it was possible to see in it the woman with the child on hands, and also a bear. Such many-sided sacral "being" could not remain not noticed, and the millenium ago the stone image became a place of worship and sacrifices to what finds of archeologists testify.
After returning to "Dignity-vozh" we were waited by a meeting with neighbours - field group of institute of biology of Komi based here. We could not miss such possibility and have held with scientists the improvised press conference.
The group has appeared numerous enough (15 persons) and in it experts in various groups of live organisms have been presented. As its heads have told, in the work the group pursues two large enough aims under programs of the Russian Academy of Sciences. One of them is concentrated round a biodiversity of Subpolar Ural Mountains and the second - vegetative resources of the European north in general. In the researches which last any more one year, employees of institute spend data gathering for an estimation of a condition of a biodiversity in territory of park and changes which occur under the influence of global processes.
The second block of the researches is closely connected with the variety program; concerning studying of resources of useful plants of the European northeast, in particular territories «Jugyd Vа». Certainly, these researches are not connected in any way with industrial use of park cultures that our neighbors have especially noted. They put slightly other problems, and first of all to reveal the useful substances containing in herbs, and conditions of their accumulation. Further recommendations about cultivation of plants which will find application in a botanical garden of institute will be developed. Opening of new medical preparations can become result of these researches. And such operational experience at laboratory already is. In the end of the last year, after 16 years of researches, the institute managed to register three preparations.
Employees of institute hope that this time they will manage to work on the same algorithm. For now they only accumulate the information.
We have from its part wished our neighbours of good luck, and next day have gone on a new meeting. This time the quartz mine and the industrial base located near to it "Desired" became object.
On an entrance to base we have made two stops at mountains Erkusej (Shaman-mountain) and lakes Balbanty. Mountain to us to reach, naturally, it was not possible - from road it is on distance of many kilometres, but it has not prevented us to estimate it from the aesthetic point of view. To tell that it is unusual - a little. It is unreal and against a surrounding landscape it seems with the grotesque slopes - "steps" any alien. And meanwhile a mountain origin rather usually for rocky formations. But it has not prevented reindeer breeders, whose way lies at its foot, to make a worship subject, Shaman-mountain. Here, on a certain giving from which there were already only not clear hearings, has found last shelter one of great shamans of the North. Whether so it? This question to answer today it is difficult enough. Accompanying us the deputy director of park on scientific work Elena Chubnitsina has told that itself time and again tried to collect legends about local places, but, unfortunately, it was not possible to it. Their keepers practically does not remain, and those who can remember something, are remote, after all the basic source of ancient legends - wandering reindeer breeders mansi.
However, absence of the present legends is with interest filled modern stories. For example, about mad quantity of gluttons which ostensibly is found in park territory. Their cheerful fellow traveller to Inty has shared such history with our Syktyvkar colleagues. One more heard story, absolutely fantastic - about a bear-shishkoede twisting nests in crones of a larch and attacking from above on everything that moves. There is "legend" and on the incorrect beauty in which honour the stream of Ajkes-vozh has been named, and this name is translated as «Heart of the beauty is inclined to change».
The stories were and on quartz mine of Joint-Stock Company «Kozhimsky RDP»: that the quartz extracted here was used for manufacturing of windows for space station "Union" and about black getter Shubine who ostensibly lives in old shtol'nia. A local phantom to meet to us has not had the luck, but we bore a grudge not.
The chief of an underground site has led for us excursion on the worker shtol’nia № 16. Having passed 120-130 metres we have risen to 983 metres above sea level. Also it would be desirable to notice that such beauty seldom where can be met: patches of light from small lamps and photo-flashes transformed dairy-sparkling surfaces surrounding us into walls of a fantastic palace, and grottoes with waters making the way on a surface and ask to become scenery to a fantastic film.
And on an exit from shtol’nia we were waited by one more surprise - the snowfall has begun.
Return at summer we could only next day, having moved on base "Eagle".
Civilisation - far and close.
After the several days filled with trips and a life in "field" conditions, the base "Eagle" has made upon us indelible impression. It was returning to a civilization: small houses-teremki are supplied by a central heating, also in them - beds with the bed-clothes, the equipped kitchens and satellite TV.
Similar conveniences have seemed to some excessive and between us even there was a dispute which should be tourist centers. The part tended to that for unification with the nature the separation from a civilization should be full. Others considered that the tourist himself has the right to choose, its rest should be how much extreme. And I support this point of view. Far not everyone is capable to take out a full separation from a civilization, and the shock therapy is necessary not always. The base "Eagle" for those who wishes to have a rest instead of to submit tops. It can become an intermediate stop on a long way. About it we also had a talk with the owner "Eagle", the director of Open Company "Tugan" Alexander Belonozhko. During minipress conference he has agreed that the base is calculated on civilized rest, but accessible by not all because of lodging for the night cost. Rest in comfortable conditions manages from 1 to 3 thousand rubles a day. However, it is necessary to pay for comfort.
Perhaps, the only thing that here does not suffice is a shower, it is replaced with a bath on coast Kozhima. In the rest base - simply ideal place for family rest. Vicinities are full of beauty which should be visited and seen. We some of them have bypassed group, and a part - one by one. The stream of Tela Shor, proceeding directly under walls of houses in which us have arranged had especial popularity. Surprising, almost decorative thresholds and falls have to sincere rest. For fans of thrills there is a route: by rocky formations on island in the middle of Kozhima to whom it is possible to pass only having got over on the long hinged bridge. At once I will notice that ours Intinsky bridge conducting in park of rest, near to Kozhimsky is not quoted, too wide and short. I admit, unlike the colleagues I could not force to step myself on it and consequently was limited to a modest role - fixed another's feat.
Also near to base the former ranges of gold miners are located. The panorama opening on them from roads is grandiose and majestic. Interested persons could examine and them. Though to come nearer to slopes of "canyon" and it was not recommended, but all of us managed to spend extreme shooting.
We have brought all results of our wanderings and adventures for amicable, but, alas, a farewell table. Everyone from press round still had the, sometimes especially personal impressions. But all of us have converged in opinion that tourism in territory «Jugyd Vа» really has the big prospects, and ourselves at any possibility will return to park at least once again.
In the morning we have left "the Eagle" shelter and on Intinsky to a path have recovered in a way back.
The original text – Maria Starostina
Photo – Maria Starostina
Transfer – Nina Lukyanova
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